ADVICE/DINING/TRAVEL

JOURNEY TO TURKS & CAICOS:
THE FINALE…

CATCH UP ON THE ADVENTURE HERE

You might say that I’ve saved the best for last, although any one of these places would’ve made my week in any other place. Arguably, the best food on the island, “Coyaba” was to be the crown jewel in my tour of Provo restaurants.

As it turns out, “Coyaba” is an Arawak Indian word that means “heavenly.” That this restaurant was given this is a name is oh so apropos. First, however, I have a confession to make. Similar to the way that I’ve often got more month left at the end of my money back home, I was in a similar pickle here. I had one night left, and still had two must-visit places on my agenda to choose from. But how do you choose? Do you skip the best restaurant on the island so that you can get to the one place that is the unanimous choice by the locals, “Smokey’s”, for the real live Turks Islander experience? You’ve already gone to several other outstanding restaurants with million-dollar views. On the other hand, do you skip the only true local experience when you’re a person that lives for that kind of thing? A lesser foodie might have made a tough decision and chosen one. I got an early start.

The service at “Coyaba,” like the rest of the places was impeccable, but somehow even a cut above. It was a fairly small place but it seemed like there wait staff numbered in the hundreds. Servers and waiters were coming and going from all directions all the time. One of them brought me one of the chef’s creations while I contemplated the menu choices. It seemed simple enough, baby carrots, slices of red peppers, and pita bread wedges placed just so around a dipping sauce. The pita bread wedges were warm, however, and the sauce was out of this world. I asked 3 different members of the wait staff what was in it just to make sure that I didn’t forget. It was a white sauce (well, i think it was white, but couldn’t really tell by candlelight) made from cream cheese, sour cream, and coconut, but somehow tasted like honey butter…but BETTER! I think I could’ve left right after tasting this and been satisfied.

I ordered a lobster bisque that seemed to be the gold standard for lobster bisques around the world, served in all of its steamy perfection in a large white bowl with colorful designs around its rim. I accompanied this with a hearty duck confit salad and told them to keep the pitas and dipping sauce coming. It was really a shame that I couldn’t stay longer, but even in that short time, I was very impressed. It’s a good thing I did leave though, because it surely would’ve broken the bank. As it was I left there $74 lighter and hadn’t even peeked at the entree menu yet.

So that you’re not brow-beaten by my verbosity any longer, I’ll summarize some other nice spots to drop in on if you make it down to Provo. Drink in these pictures to wash it all down…

Lunch/Casual Dinner:
Mango Reef- a great bar and grill spot right on the beach with a pleasant dining area that makes a good soup/salad and sandwich.

Da Conch Shack- as authentic as you can be without being authentic, but deceptively good. The Curry Conch is a must. Bring your camera because the views don’t get any better than this.

Corner Cafe- A great sandwich shop attached to the grocery store off the main drag. Try the prosciutto if you go there a few times, but definitely do not skip the Corner Club or the Smoked Turkey Club.

Ports of Call/Dive Bar- these are right near the Caicos Cafe and they are your basic low scale eateries that still do a pretty good job on the grub, make a stiff drink and still charge you like you’re at the Ritz.

Smokey’s- This is the spot where the locals eat. If you like your common rib shack, jook joint, mama’s-kitchen-soul-food-spot in any rural part of the Southern United States, this is your spot. Surprisingly, there aren’t any $3 entrees, but if you haven’t noticed by now, the economics on this island are all screwed up. Wednesday is Fish Fry night and the parking lot is the see and be seen spot for the brothas that like to play the funky beats out of the back of their jeeps.

Destah Owens is a single father of two from Northern California and proud UCLA Bruin who travels the world for his job as a computer engineer. His blog, “Soufflés in Saigon,” is exclusive to Urban Thought Collective.


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February 23rd, 2009 at 12:36 am Destah Owens says:

more on Da Conch Shack: I noticed a guy wading out into the water with a little mini boat and then submerging himself in the water. (there are pics of this in the link).When he came back up, he was holding conch shells in each hand.Wow! Hemingway probably sat in this same spot and gazed out upon this same process back in his “Old Man and the Sea” days. My clients let me enjoy it for a minute and then brought out the proverbial needle to burst my proverbial bubble after I had snapped all of these pictures. It turns out that this old house had not been there for 50 or 60 years.It was made to look that way. In actuality, it was only a couple of years old. I was amazed. They had really nailed it. The story has it that there was a guy called Boogaloo, who hobbled around with limp and had a larger than life personality. He was a pretty colorful character that would do everything from swim out back to get the conch and cut them right out of the shells, to cooking, and construction of the less than “up to code” structure that was Boogaloo’s Conch Shack. This sounds like exactly where I’m trying to hang out. I imagined Boogaloo being the type of character that would leave a lasting impression on me like the very colorful Franco Graceffa , owner of Dolce Vita in Boston’s North End and his accordion playing “cantante”, or like Mama at Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles on Pico in Los Angeles snapping at you to “get yo’ elbows offa Mama’s table!” Life seemed to be all good for ol’ Boogaloo until some expat businessman tried to come in and take Boogaloo’s Conch Shack to the big time. Allegedly, there was a dispute, one thing led to another and Boogaloo got bamboozled and in the process this place has taken the place of his place. I hope he gets back on his feet.

February 23rd, 2009 at 1:53 am JOURNEY TO TURKS & CAICOS: THE FINALE… | Urban Thought Collective says:

[...] JOURNEY TO TURKS & CAICOS: THE FINALE… | Urban Thought Collective [...]

February 23rd, 2009 at 11:06 am Tristian Eames says:

I AM SOOO LOVIN THIS

February 23rd, 2009 at 11:42 am buttabrown says:

The pics are wonderful can’t wait to hear about the next trip

February 23rd, 2009 at 12:27 pm Ashley says:

Wow this place sounds beautiful but expensive. I’m glad I can live the experience through your pockets!

February 23rd, 2009 at 12:35 pm Tina says:

The photos are great! The waters is so beautiful. It makes me want to go on vacation. Ahhh!

February 23rd, 2009 at 12:54 pm Ingrid says:

U probably have enuff frequent flyer miles to circle the world!

February 23rd, 2009 at 1:21 pm lolalove says:

Lobster Bisque is one of my favorites not everyone can get that ish right

February 23rd, 2009 at 4:37 pm Stephanie says:

I have wanted to go here for years. Reading your blog makes me want to jump on a plane today!

February 23rd, 2009 at 5:21 pm Uni Tee says:

YUMS!

February 23rd, 2009 at 5:24 pm Talesa says:

I am so corny. But everytime I hear the word ‘conch’ I think of Lord of the Flies. “I’ve got the conch!!”

February 23rd, 2009 at 7:15 pm Destah Owens says:

@Talesa: me too!

February 24th, 2009 at 12:39 pm Krista Wills says:

Did you take any recipes home and try em on your harem! LOL

February 24th, 2009 at 2:28 pm Yollee says:

gonna plan a weekend trip
you gave me the itch!

February 24th, 2009 at 4:58 pm Geneva Neuman says:

living life like its GOLDEN!!

February 25th, 2009 at 3:20 pm belly says:

How come you can’t have one of your dimes meet you there
Don’t play like you ain’t da playa balla type

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